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Splicing manual

The displayed line in picture 1 should be made with FLYSURFER sizes of 2 cm loop length and 8 cm of spliced line. Required parts:

• Splicing needles (can be obtained at any upholster company, or FLYSURFER for 20,- EUR)
• Tape measure
• Carving board
• Sharp knife
• Permanent marker
• Flat pliers
• Sewing-machine, nylon thread
• Lighter

First, the line has to be marked as required, using the permanent marker. Mark A: Has two dashes. This is where the loop end will be, after the splicing. Mark B1: This is where the needle has to be poked in. Mark B2 to check: It will be congruent to mark B1 after the splicing. Mark C1: This is where the needle has to be poked out. This mark is about 10 cm away from mark B1, because a loss of length has to be considered when splicing 8 cm. Mark C2: This is where the splice length of 8 cm is marked. The excess length on the left of the mark will be cut off afterwards.

Fan out the end of the line using the flat pliers and cut about half of the material off. That way, the line end loses volume and slides better during splicing.

Thread the line end through the eye of the needle and fold it, so that the cut off line fibres are covered. That way, the line slides better during splicing. Poke the needle into the line on mark B1 right in the centre of the line. In order to find the line centre, it might be helpful to push the line together near the area of mark B1, so the single-braided fibres can separate.

Push the line onto the needle and poke through mark C1 and pull the needle out.

Pull the needle through the inside of the line using the flat pliers, and make sure the needle eye enters the inside of the line cleanly.

Pull the line end out so far, so that the mark B1 and mark B2 are congruent. Mark A with the two dashes is now the loop centre.

Cut off the line end at mark C2 in the most acute angle. That way, the line will cover the line end without kinking it and will prevent it from breaking open under heavy load.

Sweep the splice smooth. Be very careful not to shift the loop. The cut off line end will disappear inside the line.

The line has to be secured in the centre of the splice using a nylon thread, so that the line doesn’t slip away during light vibrations. You can either do that using the sewing machine or by hand. The line tightens under heavy load and the resulting friction prevents the extraction of the splice.

The line ends are carefully burnt away, using a lighter. Be careful not to melt the line.

Now the second splice is marked at the other end of the line and the procedure begins once again. For that purpose it is best to attach the line to the tape measure, so you can mark the line accurately.

When marking the line, you should consider that the line length is shortened during splicing, depending on the material of the line.

DC 500 is shortened 20 mm
DC 300 is shortened 15 mm
DC 200 is shortened 12 mm
DC 160 is shortened 9 mm
DC 120 is shortened 8 mm
DC 100 is shortened 8 mm
DC 60 is shortened 7 mm

We used a DC 300 line in our example and wanted to make a line with a length of 40 cm. Mark A isn’t supposed be at 40 cm – the loss due to the splice has to be added – but at 41,5 cm.

Finished: a double-sided, spliced line with a length of 40 cm.